Archive for May, 2010

May 31 2010

cinema worth seeing: jan svankmajer’s Alice

promotional shot of Mia Wasikowska as Alice in Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland, 2010

I didn’t write about it at the time, but a while ago I – like so many others – took the time to go and see the latest take on Alice in Wonderland, that questionable offering from odd-bedfellows Disney and Tim Burton. I was, I regret to say, rather disappointed. Of course it was beautiful – stunning, really, in parts – and the costumes were quite divine (which is usually enough to sell me on a film), but there was so much CGI that it overshadowed everything else; and let’s not even go into the atrocious details of those awful moments of ‘Disney-fication’ (if you’ve seen it I’m sure you know the ones) that, I suppose, must have come with the contract, and rather spoiled the mood of the piece entire. Then again, I knew from the outset that it was going to be about as far a cry as possible from my favorite version of the story to date, one Alice (1988) by Czech director Jan Svankmajer.

film still of Alice and the Mad Hatter, from Jan Svankmajer’s Alice, 1988

I first saw Svankmajer’s Alice some two years ago, drawn in by the name, and the promise of puppetry and stop-frame animation, and the film far exceeded my expectations. Not only does it utilize the tactile, old-school (retrospectively, that is) cinematic techniques to which the Alice stories lend themselves so beautifully, but it embraces the underlying discomfort I have always sensed in the original books, and which so many more romantic, beautified versions (consciously or unconsciously) overlook. I love the look and feel (and, lets face it, the unsettling nature) of the film as a work in itself, but more than that I appreciate the fact that it is actually one of the most faithful cinematic renditions of the book that I’ve yet encountered. It is, undoubtedly, creepy; but then again, when you think about it, isn’t Carroll’s original, too? Leaving aside the dubious interactions of the author with his underage muse, Alice in Wonderland is, when considered objectively, far from a wholesome and uplifting childish tale. It has much more in common with the grim reality-pushed-to-the-edge-of-nightmare style of storytelling that one finds in un-sanitized fairytales, than with the brightly coloured, watered-down fluff so often pushed at children today.

Alice, by John Tenniel, from the 1865 publication of Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland

When you strip away the various pancake parlor and pastel-princess makeovers, Alice in Wonderland deals with some pretty disquieting issues. For a start there’s that socially uncomfortable oral fixation (usually bred or beaten out of children – particularly girls – by the time they learn how to dress themselves, but very much alive and well in Alice); I don’t think I know of any other heroine so prone to putting unknown substances in her mouth. But there are also a number of other, less obvious themes, more commonly dealt with in texts on psychoanalysis and the more gruesome of crime novels than your average children’s classic.

film still of Alice going down the ‘rabbit hole’, from Jan Svankmajer’s Alice, 1988

First there’s the constant stream of unpredictable metamorphosis, not only of the hero herself, but of her surroundings, companions and dietary staples, causing constant instability (though admittedly of the variety commonly more distressing to adult readers than children). Then there’s the consumption of sentient life-forms – those poor oysters, for example – which hints at cannibalism, or at the very least that squeamish feeling most people get when confronted with the realities of meat-as-living-creature, capable of experiencing pain, affection, etc. Hallucination plays another starring role, and though the whole story is sometimes argued as nothing more than a dream-sequence, Alice’s active engagement in it distances the fiction from the type of subconscious ramblings most readers are more familiar with. The heroine herself is also rather unsettling – even unacceptable, as girls go – on account of her highly antisocial behavior, and the nonchalance with which she encounters one odd and potentially dangerous person or situation after another. She has none of the anxiety and concern for her bodily safety so necessary to instill in girl children for the happy maintenance of western patriarchal society; Alice is one of those rare, rare creatures, a truly fearless heroine (another reason, in my view, why the Disney/Burton collaboration wasn’t up to scratch). She requires no hand-holding, no company in the dark; she gets up on her own, crawls through tunnels and into unknown spaces without fear (of unknown persons or unknown filth); feels safe and at ease enough with herself and her body to chase after and interact with strange (often male) creatures and persons, and consume – or rather, taste, that most underutilized and feared of the senses – anything that appears in her path. This act of consumption is in itself disturbing in a female-bodied character. Women and girls are, typically, that which is devoured – not the other way around. And let’s not forget the worrisome tumbling of little girls into dark, confined spaces, bare of protective influences or external aid. It may have been gussied up by Disney twice, now, but all the technicolour in the world won’t save Alice from being, at her core, a rather unsettling breed of hero.

conceptual art for Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland, 2010

And unlike the other versions I’ve seen, Svankmajer’s Alice shies away from none of this. However, that shouldn’t suggest that it’s any darker than Carroll’s original, because for all that it is true to the book’s more unsettling elements, there is also a sense of that quiet naivete that is always present, in its most extreme form, in those children prone to play by themselves, immersed in worlds of their own making. It has, more than anything, a quality that is not so much ‘dreamlike’ as ‘make-believe’, and though the difference is subtle and often missed, any imaginative child will tell you that there most definitely is one. Though the content of Alice in Wonderland – whether written down or portrayed in poignantly jerky stop-motion – is disturbing, seen through an adult lens, the genius of it is that, really, one suspects this could be true of many a childhood imaginary game. And ultimately, what disturbs us most is, I think, that what we – adults, readers, critics – find alarming, Alice takes surely in her stride, and more than that, into her control.

May 28 2010

jewels: by camille miceli

jewellery by camille miceli, photo by garance doré

i found these over on garance doré‘s blog.  they’re by camille miceli, now doing jewelley for dior, previously of louis vuitton plastic-paper-chains fame (exhibit b):

daisy necklace, Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2009, via ilovelv

i’m not so mad about the plastic/paper chains – i like them better on their own than on the models, where they’re very…large.  and a little pre-school for my taste – but i appreciate the recliaming of childish persuits…and the hilarity of paying US$1,050 to indulge them.

jewellery by camille miceli, photo by garance doré

these new works for dior, though.  these i love a little bit.  they remind me of coral formations, or rock strata.  you couldn’t wear much else with them, but they’d be pretty stunning, just with the simplest of simple shirts and jeans.  i like jewellery that makes its quiet presence known without needing an elabourate backdrop.

May 26 2010

beautiful things: laura cooperman

all images by laura cooperman, from paper cuttings.

i think laura cooperman‘s work is extraordinary.  i love paper-based art practice (as i may have mentioned before) but cooperman’s work gets one better, combining hyper-delicate paper structures with cogs and moving parts.

i love mechanical things in general, but the use of grimy masculine clockwork and gear chains, alongside diaphanous architectural-type buildings is, i think, brilliant.  it’s a little bit steampunk in feel, and though the white offsets the connection with modern starkness, i can’t help getting a feeling remeniscent of the response i had when watching the mysterious geographic explorations of jasper morello, with its shadow-world of profile figures, and translucent machines.

in her bio cooperman cites a fascination with ’living space and its affects on the human psyche’, but i wonder whether the inclusion of mechanical apperati and real moving parts goes deeper than that, to explore the machinations – psychic and machine – that go on beneath a city and the spaces built for human beings to dwell in.

May 25 2010

wishful thinking

charlotte gainsbourg, being impeccably elegantly casual, as she is wont to be (though unfortunately i do not know who it’s by).

May 11 2010

diy baroque

how great is this shop interior by ukrainian design company belenko! ?

i found it via design for mankind, and it’s brilliant because of how beautifully simple it is – all done with white paint and black markers.   i most particularly enjoy the contrast, though; baroque is, by definition, a style of layers and sumptuous tactility – it’s such a lovely idea, you know, to invoke it on a wholely two-dimensional surface.

May 8 2010

wearable art: alexander mcqueen

i finally decided i had to repost these.  i saw them a while ago, at OutsaPop (where there are more of the set), but i love them all over again every time i look at them, so really i just had to put them over here as well.

Alexander McQueen, fall 2010.

also.  i do not think there is one outfit or item among them that would not match my new mohawk.  i may have to alter my style accordingly.  and acquire some wedge ankle boots.  and diy some fantastic autumnal patchwork shoes.

n.

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